Winding down

My time here in Vietnam is winding down as today marks my last day of work. Wow, has it been an experience. As I sit here and ponder over the last 8 weeks, I am satisfied. It seems like quite a while since I have felt such a feeling as this. Although the weeks did go by quickly and recently I have caught myself saying, "Wow, I can't believe we have to leave soon", in general it feels like the job here is done. And by no means do I think that I have learned all there is to learn about Vietnam, or that I have experienced all the sights and smells, or that I have even begun to understand this place, but there is something that feels like my expectations have been met. Since my last post, work has kept us fairly busy as we have been working to complete two reports, some surveys that will be used in the field starting in August, and a promotional video for a grant HKI is applying for to intervene amongst elderly folks in rural Vietnam who suffer from presbyopia.

If I'm being honest, the last couple of weeks have really tested my humility. I have struggled, much more than expected, to remain humble and respectful, amidst many, many project revisions. Without going into too much detail, many of the "revisions" we have been asked to make have really compromised the quality of public health that we have been taught and believe in. We constantly struggle to find any parallel between what we are being asked to revise and some cultural or social context for these revisions. We obviously, are by no means experts in public health and still have so much to learn. We also are working in a country where Westerners who have lived here for 10 years still tell me they can't understand. I've been here two months, so I am not going to begin to think like I understand the context for what I am working in. But, the frustrations have been exhausting at times. If you're actually interested, which I don't expect you to be, haha- I can go into more detail.

All in all, the experience has been rich, but maybe not for all the reasons I expected coming in to the internship, or even after a few weeks in. The second half has really taught me that I am incredibly prideful and that pride, even when you are right about something- will get you no where. I have always admired humility and desired for others to see me in that light (which probably isn't very humble itself)- but I can tell you after this trip, I have a long, long ways to go.

Although there have been frustrations, and I still don't agree with certain things we were asked to do, I have taken away some quite valuable experiences that I hope will make me into not only a better public health researcher/practioner, but a better person one day.

The Vietnamese people- from my coworkers, to taxi drivers, to women selling Nuoc Mia on the side of the road have shown me an unmatched kindness, unselfishness, and joy for being alive that I have yet to see anywhere else. Vietnam has taken me in, rattled me by traffic and constant noise, nourished me with banh cuon and bia, humbled me by it's mountains and coasts, and prodded me to take a deeper look at myself and how I can become a better person through recognizing my own faults and shortcomings before those of others.

                            Coworkers...and a moped (because they are everywhere)

Fancypants

I'm sure some of you all are starting to wonder...Is Michael actually doing work in Vietnam, or just prouncing around from one tourist attraction to another. Haha, Don't lie, I'm sure that's gone through your head at least once now. Well, the truth is, I am doing work, but incorporated a little extra time to do some traveling, to take time on the weekends to get out of Hanoi and see the many natural beauties that Vietnam has to offer. What a beautiful country it is, and what a privilege I have to travel while I am here.

So, where to this time? Northern Vietnam is known for it's mountains, breathtaking landscapes, and indigenous people groups, many who have migrated across the Chinese border in the last two or three centuries.
I took an overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai, a border town (we're taking 1km from China) where I then caught a connecting bus to the town of Sapa. Sapa is located in the Hoang Lien Son mountain range, also referred to as the the Tonkinese Alps. Recently it has become a tourist hotspot and is quite a unique mix of local indigenous peoples selling their crafts on the side of the road while tourist stroll past fancy hotels lined along the edge of pituresque cliffs. Sapa is home to over 8 ethnic minorities, in particular, the Hmong people.
Within a few hours of arriving in Sapa and getting settled, it was time to take a bus up to the Tram Ton Pass where the two day trek up to Mt. Fansipan would begin.

                                                           View from Sapa

                                                             Tram Ton Pass

We hired a local guide was familiar with the culture, traditions, and most of all, the way up the mountain. Our guide, "Zi" (how it is pronounced) was a 19 year old from the Black Hmong people group. I can honestly say he was one of the toughest, but sweetest young men I have ever met. He had such poise and dignity about him as he spoke about his people group and patiently answered my many questions about the history of ethnic minorities in the region and what life was like living in his village. Having Zi was an incredible asset to this adventure, not only in terms of his knowledge of the mountain and his guidance in helping us reach the summit, but also the sheer contentment and pride in his people and land that he so humbly exuded.

                                                                   "Zi"
 
Ok, ok, at this point, you're probably saying, "Stop being so deep Michael, just tell me about the hike!".
So, the hike. Well, it was hard. Very hard. I would like to think that I am a somewhat seasoned hiker, having put some miles on trails back home in the southeast. I have done harder hikes than this one, indeed, but few.
I think the challenge of Mt. Fansipan was one that I couldn't fully put my finger on. First off, I think knowing that it was the "rooftop of  Indochina" and that it stood higher than any other point in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos perhaps gave it an additional challenge in my mind. And a challenge she did deliver!
It was less hiking and more rock scrambling for 9 miles to the summit. The entire hike was hard, grueling, slippery, wet, muddy, and uncomfortable in many ways. But, honestly, that's why I loved it. We crossed streams, small waterfalls, slid down rocks, got muddy, sweaty, tired, cold, frustrated, and even at times, maybe somewhat annoyed. But it was worth it. For the view? Not really. There actually was no view to be had at the top, just thick clouds and a mess of empty champagne bottles from more prepared hikers than ourselves.

                                                        Hiking in the fog

                                                     Tarheels at the summit!

But for me, I would like to think it's less about the views or the rush of adrenaline that make experiences like this worth it. It's the shared memories, the lessons learned, the feeling of being uncomfortable, the uncertainties at every turn, the feeling of being so small and insignificant, the awe and wonder of being above the clouds and only seeing blue sky, the mystery of a cold night in the mountains, and the gratitude for the ability to have such an experience as this. That is what makes it all worth it.

After a not-so-good night's rest in a damp, rat-filled bamboo shack with about 20 other noisy hikers and their guides, we made it down the mountain, unscathed, and unbroken, but perhaps a little bit humbler and wiser than when we had begun.

"There's a hole in this mountain, it's dark and it's deep. And God only knows all the secrets it keeps"

        A 10-15 year-old bracelet made by the Hmong's  that I bought to remember this journey

Ba Vi

As you've probably read about in my previous posts, driving in Hanoi is unlike anything I've seen before. On Sunday, I decided if I was really going to get the full-Hanoi experience, I should try to drive. But not just drive a car, rather, a motorbike. Now...I'm not going to chalk myself up much here, since it was only a 150cc scooter, but it was my first time on a motorized bike, and it was Hanoi, where lanes, traffic lights, and traffic police have no authority, rather every man (or motorbike) for himself.

In short, the experience was exhillarating, to say the least. Starting off in the Old Quarter, an incredibly dense district of Hanoi full of shops, vendors, restaurants, and tourists. It is one of the more popular spots for backpackers and thru-travelers to gather and set up "camp" as there are many hotels and booking agencies for those using Hanoi as home base for their excursions throughout northern Vietnam. The plan was to travel to a national park called Ba Vi, approximately 60km west of Hanoi.
At times, Hanoi can feel a bit cramped and crowded and besides for the one day spent in Halong Bay, most of the time has been spent in a fairly packed urban setting. It was time to see some greenery and breathe some fresh"er" air.
We hired a guide who was familiar with the route to Ba Vi , the best hikes in the park, and some points of interest along the way to the park. Hiring the guide was totally worth it. Our guide, Thai, was incredibly patient with me as I probably slowed him down quite a bit at first, especially getting out of the Old Quarter. It wasn't easy learning how to wave in and out of traffic, hoping not to hit other motorbikes, women selling tofu, or the occasional cow crossing the road (I literally came about a foot from nailing a large one head on).
Once outside of Hanoi, the ride was smooth sailing and I started feeling much more comfortable with the bike. We stopped about half way up for a drink called sua da which is made from fermented fruit and sugar.
The park itself was absolutely gorgeous. With temperatures probably 10 degrees cooler and much lower humidity than Hanoi, the hiking and views were much "easier" to enjoy.

Our guide showed us two hikes at the top of the park, one to a pagoda honoring Ho Chi Minh, and another which led to a Buddhist temple where many had come to pay homage.
It was quite an experience to be surrounded by many others who had driven cars, hiked, bicycled, and even walked up this mountain to sit, pray, be silent, meditate, and reflect on the beauty and wonder surrounding them. I was taken back and quite impressed by the discipline and reverence the people had about them as they climbed quite a taxing mountain, without any REI gear, to pay respects to two men they revered and worshiped.

I think so many times for me hiking is an activity, a sport, something to accomplish perhaps. But rarely do I see it as a time to reflect, to take a step back from life and to be silent. To worship. To be humbled. To be taken out of the equation for once and to be taught by whatever God may be trying to tell me in that moment.

The rest of the trip was as fruitful as the first half.  Driving through acres of rice paddies, I got a flat and had to stop at a local "shop" on the side of the road to get it fixed. That itself was another great cultural experience. A family that lives next to a large plot of rice paddies set up a small business at their house where they repair flats from bicycles, motorbikes, and cars. They also serve tea and coffee while you're waiting. I was even offered a hit from the tobacco bong while we waited. Quite entrapeuers the Vietnamese are. Shops like this are everywhere and seem to do quite well as this family, in particular, repaired three bike tires all while my flat was getting changed.

                                                    Getting the tire repaired

Anyhow, a great day indeed. It was quite freeing not only to get on a bike and have a totally new experience doing something that was probably wasn't the safest, but getting to see the countryside, the rice paddies, the mountains, and meeting the people that call them home was the best experience of all. The Vietnamese are some of the most kind, gentle, and hard working people I have met on my journeys. Quite inspired as usual.

Connections

So some of you may know that I have recently become fairly interested in the role of fathers on infant development. Last semester at UNC I took a survey course on infant feeding and participated in a group project that looked at ways to better involve men in the process their partner and baby go through from early gestation through the first year of life. We found that very few public health studies even recognize father's as an important part of the necessary support needed for proper development, nourishment, and support on the part of the mother and her baby. Most interventions address the mother and seek to eliminate the barriers she faces while providing the best possible care for her baby.

The issue of paternal involvement interests me for many reasons, but I think specifically because it seems like quite an obvious opportunity but for some reason so thoroughly overlooked both in research and practice.
Today, I had the unique opportunity to meet with a pioneer in this area of research and study here in Hanoi. Dr. Bich, who works at the Hanoi School of Public Health, became interested in this topic when he was getting his PhD in epidemiology and behavioral science at Tulane. He said that he too was baffled at the lack of studies or interventions that even mentioned men as important, if not vital. components to the necessary support system needed by women and infants. Dr. Bich recently finished a study that looked at the impact of paternal support on rates of Exclusive Breastfeeding (EBF) practices in a province just outside of Hanoi where the exclusive BF rate was approximately 4%, significantly lower than the already low national rate of 16-18% through the first six months.

He was just recently funded for a scale-up project that will look at not only the impact of paternal support for the mother and what role that plays on EBF rates, but also the impact paternal involvement has on the infant's development from 7-20 weeks post-gestation through 1 year old. Personally, I think this is very interesting because it combines all three levels (father, mother, and baby) and recognizes the father's role to both mother and baby as equally important for the short and long-term health and well being of the infant.
I was grateful for the time Dr. Bich took to explain his research and was quite impressed by his resilience to such an under-funded, under-recognized topic such as this.

I look forward to more opportunities to stay in touch with Dr. Bich and am curious to see what findings may come from his next research project.
More to come on this front, as the beginnings of an organization called "Three to Be" or 32B are mulling in my mind (An advocacy/Call to Action organization for men to step up their roles in supporting and nuturing their partner and infant).

                                                Father and child at local park

                                                     Hanoi School of Public Health

In tune

I can't remember the last time I've truly had a day of rest. Seems like the last couple years, especially last six months have been chocked full from start to finish.
This past Sunday came as a surprise day of rest, as the weekend plans were diluted somewhat by a typhoon headed towards Hanoi up the coast of Vietnam through the South China Sea. The original plan was to spend another day exploring the mountainous Cat Ba Island which exudes upward from Halong Bay. Instead, the trip was cut short and I was back in Hanoi by early Saturday evening, just in time for some Indian food in the old quarter and a short taxi ride back to the apartment. Just for those curious- a nice meal of Indian food here in Hanoi costs about $5 per person. Not bad considering Indian in the States can costs $20/person for only a modest portion.
So, onto the Sabbath.
The skies began releasing their fury Saturday evening and come to think, it's still raining (writing this on Tuesday morning). Well done Captain- calling off the trip to Cat Ba!
On Sunday afternoon, in an effort to stretch my bones and sequester some "fresh" air, although probably more damp than fresh, I walked over to a local coffee shop just around the corner from the apartment. While drinking a Cafe Sữa Đá (an iced, Vietnamese coffee with condensed milk) and wrapping up Helen Keller's biography, mind you, a very wonderful story if you have the chance to read it, I spotted a classical guitar perched above a piano in this unique, feline-decorated cafe. Casey concurred that I should ask the owner if I might have a go at some afternoon strumming, and to my delight, the owner obliged my offer.
The first 15 minutes of playing are still a blur, probably because it has been forever since I held an instrument in hand (really, it's only been three weeks). I think I played "Will The Circle Be Unbroken" five times before moving onto the other usuals, "Orphan Girl", "Don't think twice, it's alright", "Miss Ohio", "I'll Fly Away", "Freight Train",  "Wagon Wheel", "Sweet Caroline".
I think all in all, I probably played for an hour and a half.
I forgot how much I love music. I've got a lot of learning to do, especially at the clawhammer banjo, but I am always so amazed what music can do to a person, a space, or an occasion.
I think something I love so much about playing music is that no matter where I am playing, each time I play a song, I am reminded of times I've played that song with my friends, and for some reason they feel close to me in that moment.
The last year has been a transition in many ways. Leaving Richmond, a city that shaped me and will always be near to my heart, wasn't easy by any means. Yes, leaving the Buttermilk trails, the James River, and Kuba Kuba was hard, but it wasn't those things that made my heart ache at times I least expected. It was the family and friends that have made Richmond home to me. The things I love in Richmond, or anywhere, wouldn't be the same if they couldn't be enjoyed by the friends and family I'm so blessed to have.
Tearing up the Northbank (hopefully more figuratively than literally) or stomping a boof at Pipeline just wouldn't be the same. Stalking a whitetail or calling in a Spring gobbler wouldn't be the same. VCU Rams games or Saturday mornings at the farmer's markets wouldn't be the same.
It was moments like these that I was taken back to on a rainy Sunday afternoon, sipping coffee, with a good friend, singing the blues.
I sure am blessed and I hope you all will count your blessings today as you read this and think about the things in life you love, and the people that make those experiences that much better.

Lessons

Hello folks,

I hope this post finds you well wherever you may be. Life in Hanoi is good. Most of the international traveling I've done in the past has been done in short stints-I'm talking two or three weeks in country. I think part of the excitement for me in coming to Vietnam was the chance to "settle" in another place and see what "living" in another country would be like. Though, I realize I am still very much limited in what I can experience in the meager nine weeks I will call Hanoi my home. I have for some time thought it would be nice at some point in my life to take some time off and travel the world. Perhaps 6-8 months, maybe longer. Save up some money and go see the world. 

So, this weekend, Casey and I traveled through a travel agency to Halong Bay and met folks from England, Germany, Denmark, Canada who were doing exactly that..traveling from one country to another and might I say, feasting off of the country's finer things and then scooting on to the next sight or sound. I found these folks quite interesting, as their tales were full with exciting stories of wonderous treks, delicious foods, ancient relics they had explored. Their thirst for travel accompanied by a unique sort of endurance was quite impressive as their packed itineries left only a modest amount of time for sleeping and relaxing.

As impressed as I was with their desire to see and experience sights, sounds, smells, and flavors of other cultures, what I was taken back by was a lack of respect for the local folk. I found them, myself included, to be interested more in ensuring that our Iphones were full with an impressive gallery of wondrous displays than to have a simple vocabulary that might portray our appreciation to these local folks for inviting us into their own backyards whereby we trounced with our REI sponsored trek to take in a sight or sound, and then leaving them empty handed. 

Something felt strange to me. I will admit, I am very much at fault as the two of the four or five phrases I know best here are "How much?" and "That's too expensive". Am I more interested in being ripped off than I am with telling the folks here what a beautiful country they have, or how sweet they are, or how impressed I am with their humility? 

The trip to Halong Bay was absolutely gorgeous. I am so grateful I had the chance to see such beautiful mountains rising out of the South China Sea. Even as I type that very sentence, it's hard to believe that I got to see and experience such a unique wonder of the world. 

So, this week's goal. Learn some phrases that will show my appreciation to the Vietnamese folks for their kindness and their acceptance of me into their home. Show them some respect for putting up with folks like me coming to their country, taking lots of pictures, sporting my REI-sponsored wardrobe, and asking if they have to-go cups for coffee because that's what I'm used to in the States..Thanks Starbucks for always putting my coffee in a to-go cup, regardless if I'm staying there to study for 5 hours. 

Settling in

Greetings from Hanoi!
Casey and I arrived exactly two weeks ago to Hanoi, Vietnam where we will spend two months working for Helen Keller International as part of a required practicum for school.
All in all, Hanoi has been an amazing experience thus far. Before leaving the States, I talked with a lot of folks about their experiences traveling through southeast Asia and everyone seemed to have unique stories or tales of their travels. I found them all quite interesting and couldn't wait to see for myself if I would, in fact, eat snails for every meal, as one friend told me. So...no, I haven't been eating snails for every meal, nor have I tripped from the Vietnamese coffee as told by another, but I have had my heart race more from crossing the street than I have from any waterfall or rapid I've ever run in my kayak. I don't know if I can even find the word to explain Hanoi except for that when I leave the somewhat quiet abode of my apartment until I get to whatever destination (be it inside or outside) I am constantly on alert. Not for potential thieves or damaging hail, as another told me, but rather for the sea, and I mean sea of mopeds, bicycles, and taxis and people walking in every possible direction.
So for those geography folks in the audience, Hanoi is the capital of Vietnam and is situated in the northern part of the country. Vietnam is divided into 58 provinces of which Hanoi is one. Hanoi has been the capital of Vietnam since the reunification of North and South Vietnam in 1976. Vietnam has approximately 90.3 billion folks that call it home, making it the world's 13 most populous country. As for Hanoi, it is home to about 6.5 million people, and trust me- I believe this statistic. For more fun facts like the ones in this paragraph, check out wikipedia.com- it is wonderful for fun facts.

So- what are we up to here in Vietnam? We are acting as summer interns for HKI's Vietnam office where we are first off, learning, second, learning, third, being humbled by the incredible staff and their hearts for the people of Vietnam, and fourth, we are offering our very modest public health skills for whatever they may be worth. Oh, and did I mention we are learning a lot?
So far we have been so impressed by the humility and hospitality of the Vietnamese folks, especially those we are getting to know in the office each day.
HKI has been working in Vietnam since 1990 and has focused its efforts primarily on eliminating pediatric blindness in both rural and urban districts across the country.
I have been incredibly grateful to HKI for this amazing opportunity to learn more about an issue I was otherwise, quite unfamiliar with, although one that has significant long term impacts on opportunities afforded to those impacted by it's associated conditions.
I am excited for what the next 7 weeks hold and hope to blog regularly about the amazing sights, smells, people, and most of all lessons I learn during my time here in Hanoi.

Here are some pictures for you to enjoy!

Coworkers from HKI

                                                              Old Quarter

                                        

 Lookin Asian, right??

The best and the most beautiful things in the world cannot be touched or even seen- They must be felt with the heart.  -Helen Keller