As you've probably read about in my previous posts, driving in Hanoi is unlike anything I've seen before. On Sunday, I decided if I was really going to get the full-Hanoi experience, I should try to drive. But not just drive a car, rather, a motorbike. Now...I'm not going to chalk myself up much here, since it was only a 150cc scooter, but it was my first time on a motorized bike, and it was Hanoi, where lanes, traffic lights, and traffic police have no authority, rather every man (or motorbike) for himself.
In short, the experience was exhillarating, to say the least. Starting off in the Old Quarter, an incredibly dense district of Hanoi full of shops, vendors, restaurants, and tourists. It is one of the more popular spots for backpackers and thru-travelers to gather and set up "camp" as there are many hotels and booking agencies for those using Hanoi as home base for their excursions throughout northern Vietnam. The plan was to travel to a national park called Ba Vi, approximately 60km west of Hanoi.
At times, Hanoi can feel a bit cramped and crowded and besides for the one day spent in Halong Bay, most of the time has been spent in a fairly packed urban setting. It was time to see some greenery and breathe some fresh"er" air.
We hired a guide who was familiar with the route to Ba Vi , the best hikes in the park, and some points of interest along the way to the park. Hiring the guide was totally worth it. Our guide, Thai, was incredibly patient with me as I probably slowed him down quite a bit at first, especially getting out of the Old Quarter. It wasn't easy learning how to wave in and out of traffic, hoping not to hit other motorbikes, women selling tofu, or the occasional cow crossing the road (I literally came about a foot from nailing a large one head on).
Once outside of Hanoi, the ride was smooth sailing and I started feeling much more comfortable with the bike. We stopped about half way up for a drink called sua da which is made from fermented fruit and sugar.
The park itself was absolutely gorgeous. With temperatures probably 10 degrees cooler and much lower humidity than Hanoi, the hiking and views were much "easier" to enjoy.
Our guide showed us two hikes at the top of the park, one to a pagoda honoring Ho Chi Minh, and another which led to a Buddhist temple where many had come to pay homage.
It was quite an experience to be surrounded by many others who had driven cars, hiked, bicycled, and even walked up this mountain to sit, pray, be silent, meditate, and reflect on the beauty and wonder surrounding them. I was taken back and quite impressed by the discipline and reverence the people had about them as they climbed quite a taxing mountain, without any REI gear, to pay respects to two men they revered and worshiped.
I think so many times for me hiking is an activity, a sport, something to accomplish perhaps. But rarely do I see it as a time to reflect, to take a step back from life and to be silent. To worship. To be humbled. To be taken out of the equation for once and to be taught by whatever God may be trying to tell me in that moment.
The rest of the trip was as fruitful as the first half. Driving through acres of rice paddies, I got a flat and had to stop at a local "shop" on the side of the road to get it fixed. That itself was another great cultural experience. A family that lives next to a large plot of rice paddies set up a small business at their house where they repair flats from bicycles, motorbikes, and cars. They also serve tea and coffee while you're waiting. I was even offered a hit from the tobacco bong while we waited. Quite entrapeuers the Vietnamese are. Shops like this are everywhere and seem to do quite well as this family, in particular, repaired three bike tires all while my flat was getting changed.
Getting the tire repaired
Anyhow, a great day indeed. It was quite freeing not only to get on a bike and have a totally new experience doing something that was probably wasn't the safest, but getting to see the countryside, the rice paddies, the mountains, and meeting the people that call them home was the best experience of all. The Vietnamese are some of the most kind, gentle, and hard working people I have met on my journeys. Quite inspired as usual.
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