Winding down

My time here in Vietnam is winding down as today marks my last day of work. Wow, has it been an experience. As I sit here and ponder over the last 8 weeks, I am satisfied. It seems like quite a while since I have felt such a feeling as this. Although the weeks did go by quickly and recently I have caught myself saying, "Wow, I can't believe we have to leave soon", in general it feels like the job here is done. And by no means do I think that I have learned all there is to learn about Vietnam, or that I have experienced all the sights and smells, or that I have even begun to understand this place, but there is something that feels like my expectations have been met. Since my last post, work has kept us fairly busy as we have been working to complete two reports, some surveys that will be used in the field starting in August, and a promotional video for a grant HKI is applying for to intervene amongst elderly folks in rural Vietnam who suffer from presbyopia.

If I'm being honest, the last couple of weeks have really tested my humility. I have struggled, much more than expected, to remain humble and respectful, amidst many, many project revisions. Without going into too much detail, many of the "revisions" we have been asked to make have really compromised the quality of public health that we have been taught and believe in. We constantly struggle to find any parallel between what we are being asked to revise and some cultural or social context for these revisions. We obviously, are by no means experts in public health and still have so much to learn. We also are working in a country where Westerners who have lived here for 10 years still tell me they can't understand. I've been here two months, so I am not going to begin to think like I understand the context for what I am working in. But, the frustrations have been exhausting at times. If you're actually interested, which I don't expect you to be, haha- I can go into more detail.

All in all, the experience has been rich, but maybe not for all the reasons I expected coming in to the internship, or even after a few weeks in. The second half has really taught me that I am incredibly prideful and that pride, even when you are right about something- will get you no where. I have always admired humility and desired for others to see me in that light (which probably isn't very humble itself)- but I can tell you after this trip, I have a long, long ways to go.

Although there have been frustrations, and I still don't agree with certain things we were asked to do, I have taken away some quite valuable experiences that I hope will make me into not only a better public health researcher/practioner, but a better person one day.

The Vietnamese people- from my coworkers, to taxi drivers, to women selling Nuoc Mia on the side of the road have shown me an unmatched kindness, unselfishness, and joy for being alive that I have yet to see anywhere else. Vietnam has taken me in, rattled me by traffic and constant noise, nourished me with banh cuon and bia, humbled me by it's mountains and coasts, and prodded me to take a deeper look at myself and how I can become a better person through recognizing my own faults and shortcomings before those of others.

                            Coworkers...and a moped (because they are everywhere)

Fancypants

I'm sure some of you all are starting to wonder...Is Michael actually doing work in Vietnam, or just prouncing around from one tourist attraction to another. Haha, Don't lie, I'm sure that's gone through your head at least once now. Well, the truth is, I am doing work, but incorporated a little extra time to do some traveling, to take time on the weekends to get out of Hanoi and see the many natural beauties that Vietnam has to offer. What a beautiful country it is, and what a privilege I have to travel while I am here.

So, where to this time? Northern Vietnam is known for it's mountains, breathtaking landscapes, and indigenous people groups, many who have migrated across the Chinese border in the last two or three centuries.
I took an overnight train from Hanoi to Lao Cai, a border town (we're taking 1km from China) where I then caught a connecting bus to the town of Sapa. Sapa is located in the Hoang Lien Son mountain range, also referred to as the the Tonkinese Alps. Recently it has become a tourist hotspot and is quite a unique mix of local indigenous peoples selling their crafts on the side of the road while tourist stroll past fancy hotels lined along the edge of pituresque cliffs. Sapa is home to over 8 ethnic minorities, in particular, the Hmong people.
Within a few hours of arriving in Sapa and getting settled, it was time to take a bus up to the Tram Ton Pass where the two day trek up to Mt. Fansipan would begin.

                                                           View from Sapa

                                                             Tram Ton Pass

We hired a local guide was familiar with the culture, traditions, and most of all, the way up the mountain. Our guide, "Zi" (how it is pronounced) was a 19 year old from the Black Hmong people group. I can honestly say he was one of the toughest, but sweetest young men I have ever met. He had such poise and dignity about him as he spoke about his people group and patiently answered my many questions about the history of ethnic minorities in the region and what life was like living in his village. Having Zi was an incredible asset to this adventure, not only in terms of his knowledge of the mountain and his guidance in helping us reach the summit, but also the sheer contentment and pride in his people and land that he so humbly exuded.

                                                                   "Zi"
 
Ok, ok, at this point, you're probably saying, "Stop being so deep Michael, just tell me about the hike!".
So, the hike. Well, it was hard. Very hard. I would like to think that I am a somewhat seasoned hiker, having put some miles on trails back home in the southeast. I have done harder hikes than this one, indeed, but few.
I think the challenge of Mt. Fansipan was one that I couldn't fully put my finger on. First off, I think knowing that it was the "rooftop of  Indochina" and that it stood higher than any other point in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos perhaps gave it an additional challenge in my mind. And a challenge she did deliver!
It was less hiking and more rock scrambling for 9 miles to the summit. The entire hike was hard, grueling, slippery, wet, muddy, and uncomfortable in many ways. But, honestly, that's why I loved it. We crossed streams, small waterfalls, slid down rocks, got muddy, sweaty, tired, cold, frustrated, and even at times, maybe somewhat annoyed. But it was worth it. For the view? Not really. There actually was no view to be had at the top, just thick clouds and a mess of empty champagne bottles from more prepared hikers than ourselves.

                                                        Hiking in the fog

                                                     Tarheels at the summit!

But for me, I would like to think it's less about the views or the rush of adrenaline that make experiences like this worth it. It's the shared memories, the lessons learned, the feeling of being uncomfortable, the uncertainties at every turn, the feeling of being so small and insignificant, the awe and wonder of being above the clouds and only seeing blue sky, the mystery of a cold night in the mountains, and the gratitude for the ability to have such an experience as this. That is what makes it all worth it.

After a not-so-good night's rest in a damp, rat-filled bamboo shack with about 20 other noisy hikers and their guides, we made it down the mountain, unscathed, and unbroken, but perhaps a little bit humbler and wiser than when we had begun.

"There's a hole in this mountain, it's dark and it's deep. And God only knows all the secrets it keeps"

        A 10-15 year-old bracelet made by the Hmong's  that I bought to remember this journey

Ba Vi

As you've probably read about in my previous posts, driving in Hanoi is unlike anything I've seen before. On Sunday, I decided if I was really going to get the full-Hanoi experience, I should try to drive. But not just drive a car, rather, a motorbike. Now...I'm not going to chalk myself up much here, since it was only a 150cc scooter, but it was my first time on a motorized bike, and it was Hanoi, where lanes, traffic lights, and traffic police have no authority, rather every man (or motorbike) for himself.

In short, the experience was exhillarating, to say the least. Starting off in the Old Quarter, an incredibly dense district of Hanoi full of shops, vendors, restaurants, and tourists. It is one of the more popular spots for backpackers and thru-travelers to gather and set up "camp" as there are many hotels and booking agencies for those using Hanoi as home base for their excursions throughout northern Vietnam. The plan was to travel to a national park called Ba Vi, approximately 60km west of Hanoi.
At times, Hanoi can feel a bit cramped and crowded and besides for the one day spent in Halong Bay, most of the time has been spent in a fairly packed urban setting. It was time to see some greenery and breathe some fresh"er" air.
We hired a guide who was familiar with the route to Ba Vi , the best hikes in the park, and some points of interest along the way to the park. Hiring the guide was totally worth it. Our guide, Thai, was incredibly patient with me as I probably slowed him down quite a bit at first, especially getting out of the Old Quarter. It wasn't easy learning how to wave in and out of traffic, hoping not to hit other motorbikes, women selling tofu, or the occasional cow crossing the road (I literally came about a foot from nailing a large one head on).
Once outside of Hanoi, the ride was smooth sailing and I started feeling much more comfortable with the bike. We stopped about half way up for a drink called sua da which is made from fermented fruit and sugar.
The park itself was absolutely gorgeous. With temperatures probably 10 degrees cooler and much lower humidity than Hanoi, the hiking and views were much "easier" to enjoy.

Our guide showed us two hikes at the top of the park, one to a pagoda honoring Ho Chi Minh, and another which led to a Buddhist temple where many had come to pay homage.
It was quite an experience to be surrounded by many others who had driven cars, hiked, bicycled, and even walked up this mountain to sit, pray, be silent, meditate, and reflect on the beauty and wonder surrounding them. I was taken back and quite impressed by the discipline and reverence the people had about them as they climbed quite a taxing mountain, without any REI gear, to pay respects to two men they revered and worshiped.

I think so many times for me hiking is an activity, a sport, something to accomplish perhaps. But rarely do I see it as a time to reflect, to take a step back from life and to be silent. To worship. To be humbled. To be taken out of the equation for once and to be taught by whatever God may be trying to tell me in that moment.

The rest of the trip was as fruitful as the first half.  Driving through acres of rice paddies, I got a flat and had to stop at a local "shop" on the side of the road to get it fixed. That itself was another great cultural experience. A family that lives next to a large plot of rice paddies set up a small business at their house where they repair flats from bicycles, motorbikes, and cars. They also serve tea and coffee while you're waiting. I was even offered a hit from the tobacco bong while we waited. Quite entrapeuers the Vietnamese are. Shops like this are everywhere and seem to do quite well as this family, in particular, repaired three bike tires all while my flat was getting changed.

                                                    Getting the tire repaired

Anyhow, a great day indeed. It was quite freeing not only to get on a bike and have a totally new experience doing something that was probably wasn't the safest, but getting to see the countryside, the rice paddies, the mountains, and meeting the people that call them home was the best experience of all. The Vietnamese are some of the most kind, gentle, and hard working people I have met on my journeys. Quite inspired as usual.